Italy: Taormina, Sicily

Taormina: The Sicilian Town That Has Everything

We got to Taormina the hard way—an overnight train from Rome that I would not recommend. It was hot, there was no ventilation, and by the time we arrived we were tired and ready to be off that train. We rented an Airbnb that was basic but right near the cable car, which turned out to be extremely convenient.

Taormina sits on the northeastern coast of Sicily with views of the Mediterranean on one side and Mount Etna on the other. It's the kind of place that looks exactly like the pictures, which almost never happens, and somehow still manages to exceed them.

We spent a good chunk of time just wandering through the old town, which is the best way to experience it. Cobblestone streets, medieval buildings with flowers spilling off the balconies, and alleyways that I couldn’t resist photographing. I took more pictures of doorways and side streets than I did of any landmark. We stopped at the Duomo, which is beautiful up close in a way that photos don't fully capture, and made our way through Piazza IX Aprile where we sat down, took it all in, and watched the town move around us for a while.

One evening we took a taxi up into the mountains for dinner at a small mom and pop restaurant. Traditional Italian food, nothing fancy—exactly the kind of place you hope to stumble into. And the cannoli was the best I've ever had. I've had a lot of cannoli, and I'm confident in that ranking.

We made our way down to the beach to cross over to Isola Bella, a tiny island connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand with clear water and rocky coves. We got there too late and the tide was already coming in, so we weren’t able to cross. From what I could see it would have been worth the trip across if we’d gotten there sooner.

The Greek Theater and Mount Etna both went on the bucket list for next time. The theater dates back to the 3rd century BC and is still used for performances today, with the sea and Mount Etna as the backdrop. And the idea of standing at the crater of Europe's largest active volcano with those views is too good to keep putting off. Taormina gave us a lot, but it also made a strong case for coming back.

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